Showing posts with label Fijian Food. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Fijian Food. Show all posts

Tuesday, July 20, 2010

Fiji Honeymoon: Day 8 (Liku Liku) OR "Making Friends" OR "Get the Starfish"






Katie Writing...

Today has been another wonderful day in the life of the Bloodworths. We started off the day waking up to the sunrise. I assure you, Russell was not as excited about this as I. I went to bed thinking about the sunrise and woke up twice making sure not to miss it. When I opened my eyes, the sun was just coming up on the horizon, so in sweet wifey fashion I yell "Look! Look! Wake up and look!" So Russell jumps up saying "Wha, Wha, What's going on?" and I smile and say "The sunrise. Take a picture. Hurry! Oh, and good morning." So I sat quietly after that, satisfied to see the sun come up and watch the sky turn all sorts of beautiful.

Since we were up, I finished the previous day's blog posting and we fed fish with leftover cookies. Then it was off to breakfast where once more, I made a bad choice. Russell ordered the cheese souffle which we already knew was awesome. I ordered it before I entered my streak of mediocre food choices. It's made with gruyere cheese, onions, hot red peppers and green peas. I know, green peas sounds like an odd choice, but it's REALLY good. I, in my adventurous nature, chose the mud crab omelette. Could be good right? Nope! It was very bland and crabby tasting. Did I eat it anyway? Yep...and followed it up with a full bowl of granola complete with yogurt and berries. That's my kind of breakfast.

And now a note about service. On par with previous dining experiences, breakfast came with it's glitches. Nothing terrible, but still noteworthy. We were seated in a lovely spot facing the ocean and the pier and given menus. Catch one: one of the menus had no actual menu inside, it was just a folder. Catch two: our waitress seats us and asks us if we would like water. We reply "Yes". The question was followed with "Would you like tea or coffee." We go against our routine of just water and add in a request for tea. Away she goes. Eight minutes later, no tea, no water and no order taken another waitress approaches the table. She asks for our room number (of course, however we still haven't figured out why everyone wants to know our room number), asks us if we'd like something to drink and we give the same order of tea and water. She then takes our food order. She repeats the order "Souffle, omelette, and coffee." She is corrected, "we'd actually like to have tea, not coffee." and off she goes. Five minutes more pass. Tea arrives from the initial waitress and she does not take our order. Five minutes after that, the second waitress brings tea. Oops! Lack of communication...who would've thought?!

Ok, that's all for meal bloopers, at least for now.

We finish breakfast and head back to the room for a little snorkel. One of the perks of these over water burres is that you have a ladder off the side of your porch that goes right down into the water. We don't even have to go anywhere to see the beauty of the coral reef! Down we go to see what there is to see. The fish here are beautiful! We see fish that you've only ever seen in Finding Nemo. Clown fish, Parrot fish, fish that look like leopards, clear fish, fish you can't even describe. My favorite thing and what I'm most fascinated by are the bright blue starfish. My mission for the day- hold one.

The first step of my mission is to figure out if the blue beauty I've admired from afar is actually a starfish and not a piece of coral (which is what Russell believed). I dive in and take time to enjoy the view. Rainbows of color everywhere you look. Even the nasty sea cucumbers are cool. Now I know the general population's fascination with neon, everyone wants to have a piece of this beauty below the ocean. My opinion, keep the neon on the fish...it does not look good on humans. Anyway, I find the bright blue object about six feet down. As I've discussed in a previous post, I have become a floater and not a sinker so getting below the surface of the water proves to be a challenge. I swim down just long enough to poke it. Hmm, it's rigid. It does not seem to budge when I touch it, maybe it is coral. I swim on to shallower water to see if I can find another one. I find one on a big piece of coral. I pull, it doesn't budge. However, I've decided it definitely IS a starfish, each one I see has five arms; some of them are hiding halfway in the sand or in the holes of other coral. I continue the mission. I swim over a shallow bit of sand and spot one, it's not too deep for me to grab and there's no coral for it to attach itself. I pick it up, it doesn't squirm like the other starfish I've held on this trip. I get really excited, this may be the most beautiful thing I've held in my hand yet. We must take a picture. Somehow, Russell isn't quite as excited as I am about my discovery. I get him to hold it and he does so like he's found a dirty sock- far away from his body with just his thumb and forefinger. I laugh and take it back into my possession. When we get back to our dock, I place the starfish carefully on the ladder so as not to drop it or harm it in any way. Now is when he decides to use his tentacles. They're tiny, and strong! The starfish is stuck to the ladder! I pull and push and try to slide him off, I mean, he's got to come off sooner or later or he'll dry out! I feel terrible when I pull him from the stair and he leaves a few tentacles behind. Starfish have the uncanny ability to regrow missing parts, right? It's just a few tentacles right? Either way, I apologize profusely, we take it's photo and I swim him back down to the bottom of the ocean. (Thank you for reading this part...I'm sure I've enjoyed writing it much more than anyone will enjoy reading this play by play).

We end our bit of snorkeling and do a bit of lounging and cookie eating (might I add that one of the room service men called us the cookie monsters today). After that, we packed our bag and headed to lunch with the expectation of spending time at the pool and making some friends.

Lunch: Russell scores, I fail...surprise! Russell gets the pesto risotto with squid and I order the chicken ramen in honor of my sister. Russell's lunch was rich and flavorful, mine fell flat- watery broth, unidentifiable chicken pieces, bitter mushrooms, soggy tofu. These aren't your average ramen noodles and ( I can't believe I'm saying this) I think Manchu Wok is better. Please, write that down. Lunch brings the crazy bad service once again with an empty drink menu and no water or any sort of service past the part of being seated for 15 minutes. Several waiters look at our table and a few even ask if we've been helped, but to no avail. Finally water comes followed by appetizers and food and even mojitos that we ordered after Russell goes to the hostess desks and requests it. The rest of lunch is uneventful.

And we're off to the pool for some friend-making. Have we mentioned that we aren't good at this? We met some people who arrived two days ago that have become best friends with every American couple in the resort in less than 48 hours. Russell and I feel like we're back in elementary school trying to break into the "cool group". We're sissies. At the pool, we eaves drop on a few conversations, watch people making friends and take some paparazzi pics of the guy who is in his late fifties and vacationing with his mother.

Let me introduce you- He drinks wine straight from the bottle and balances a CD Walkman with really nice Bose headphones. He does a little dance that he thinks no one can see. I can only imagine that he's rocking out to some vintage hip hop from the 80s. He comes complete with a gold chain and a plumber's crack. It's possible that he shaves his chest. This is the same guy who wears sunglasses to dinner. Don't worry, he changes them up, sometimes he wears reflective lenses ( you know, the ones that look like rainbows) and sometimes, on special evenings he brings out the yellow lenses. Russell says he looks like Jeff Bridges, from the Big Lebowski. He wears his house shoes as flip flops and has taken special care to get some frosted tips in his shaggy brown hair. His outfits are an endless array of ridiculousness from white steel toed boots to button downs replete with images of skulls and lightning bolts . This man scares me to death. Every time he walks past me, I envision him slugging me in the face and laughing as he continues on.

Russell writing...

Anyway, back to us being the peripheral outcasts of our age group at the resort. We've tried to break the ice with a few different couples, but they in turn just decide to hang out with each other. We are indeed, as Katie put it, wusses.

As we sat by the pool people-watching, we saw a small opportunity. "Jeff Bridges" was in some sort of intense conversation with a staff member (we've no idea what it was about). In addition to wanting to get some good gossip on the resort's resident weirdo, we also noticed that another couple between us and "Jeff" was watching the argument. We figured that, assuming the argument ever drew to a close, we could approach the young couple and ask about what happened. Perfect ice breaker! What's more, the guy in this couple was wearing some Duke shorts, so there was another in (of course, he was also wearing a Clemson shirt, and a Notre Dame hat, but that's neither here nor there). As we plotted our introduction, we were soon thwarted by the old Anglo couple we'd seen at dinner the previous night singing along with the Fijian church choir from their table. They came over to our young couple and made some sort of small talk remark about...something or other. And before you know it, the old couple and young couple are soon best friends, with us, once again, the lonely onlookers as they walked away from the pool. Ah well.

We weren't totally defeated yet though. More opportunity was there. A resort volleyball game was scheduled for that afternoon, and Katie and I figured that we might finally have an "in" with the cool kids. First though, we decided to go back to our burre and drop off our stuff.

At the burre, we lounged a bit to cool off from the sun, and we were soon greeted by a knock on the door. Any time staff comes to visit us they're either bringing us cookies or someone's coming by to, for reasons unknown, ask us some ridiculous question that has nothing to do with anything. And even though our burre number is written on the outside of our hut, it wouldn't surprise me if they ever came by to confirm it. I think Katie has said enough about the staff though to give you a sense of the craziness we've experienced!

It turned out that this house call was actually just a staff member dropping by to replenish our cookie supply and bring us an afternoon snack (snacks are apparently only reserved for folks in the over-water burres; why's this? no idea). After noting that our cookie jar was completely empty, he felt compelled to nickname us the resort cookie monsters. We already know we're fat, pal. Thanks though. With that playful jab at our rapidly expanding bellies, we now had further reason beyond making friends to join in the volleyball game that afternoon. Modest exercise.

Before we could depart for the game, there was another knock on the door. This time though, something rather remarkable happened. I opened the door to greet whoever it might be, and two staff members walked in carrying an ice bucket with a bottle of champagne....and a letter. They left as quickly as they entered, leaving us to figure out what was going on. The letter enclosed a general apology from the staff for all of our difficulties from transferring rooms the previous day. It didn't specify WHICH of the difficulties it was apologizing for, but we were still appreciative of the gesture. However, despite the letter's insistence that yesterday's service snafus were an abnormal occurrence, it's going to take more than a bottle of champagne for Katie and I to believe that. At the very least you'd think someone would have apologized verbally when, you know, all those "difficulties" were actually occurring! Meh... free champagne.

(Katie Writing)
On our way to the game, we plotted our friendship-making plan. What we'll do is invite everyone over to our burre for some champagne, boxed wine, and the best views on the resort. That'll win us some "cool" points for sure...

(Russell writing)

Back at the resort lodge, the volleyball game was already in progress between the "cool kids," as well as a few others. Sake, a staff member and actually a relative of Sara from Taveuni Palms; "Jeff Bridges" with his 80 year old mother looking on from a chair at the lodge; a mousy-looking French Canadian couple; a middle aged American couple. And then of course the "cool kids," comprised of three couples all around our age who had decided over the past 24 hours that they were going to be best friends for the rest of their lives. Grrr.. :)

Sake invited us to join in, and Katie and I each went to a different team. For the next hour or so we played some very mediocrely skilled volleyball matches. Although nobody there was particularly fantastic, Katie and I are notably terrible. With the depth perception of an infant bear cub, we both have a rough time gauging the ball as it comes flying towards us. "Somebody else!", we yell, as we try do move out of the way so one of our more skilled teammates can hit it. We're constantly apologizing for our wretched skills. Very impressive showing.

At one point, Katie notices one of the cool kids is wearing some Tennessee basketball shorts and asks if he's an alum. "Yes." That's about the extent of that conversation. He and his wife, who also went to UT, seemed modestly amused but not much more. There was about a 2-second version of the "name game" that followed. One-sided of course.

After a while, we switched up teams and Katie and I were now joined forces. Not a good thing for our side. "Service," says the other side as the smack the ball over towards us. As long as our fellow players can get to the ball before us, we're in good shape. But as soon as it heads to me or Katie, "somebody else!" "Not me!" "Augh!" "I'm just trying to throw off the other team...it's all part of the strategy!"

We finally decided we'd embarrassed ourselves enough for one afternoon, although we did have quite a bit of fun. We bid our farewells, as did the French Canadians, the middle aged couple, and "Jeff Bridges", who, incidentally, is not a good volleyball player for being as tall as he is. We contemplate posing our offer of wine and view gazing but can't get up the nerve. The "cool kids" stayed behind though to keep playing. Mission Failure.

At dinner, Katie and I couldn't help but notice a marked difference in the way things went. To put it another way, dinner actually went smoothly. Service wasn't bizarrely scattered and disorganized. Whadya know!? Our best guess is that, along with the written apology we received from the management that day, there must have been a memo sent out telling the staff to step their game up for the folks in Burre #1. Perhaps someone on the management team is reading our blog?

(Katie Writing)

The only notable event is the following: We hear laughing coming from the pier. Whatdaya know? It's the cool kids on their way to dinner. Russell and I debate, should we wave? say "hi"? We decide to do both but their too busy laughing and talking that they don't see us. They approach the hostess station and- wait for it, wait for it....all sit together at a table for six. The cool table. We're not invited. Dang.

(Russell Writing)

Anyway, for dinner Katie had some sort of fish while I enjoyed the lamb. Both were quite tasty. However, the appetizers preceding these were a little more iffy. First Katie had the "bay bug", which, although not quite as gross as it sounds (it's sort of like mini lobster), wasn't as delicious as our server described. I had the safer sounding sea scallops, which were actually quite disgusting to both of us! I'm not even going to mention Katie's description of them.

Until tomorrow. The End.



Monday, July 19, 2010

Fiji Honeymoon: Day 8 (Liku Liku) OR Get that Starfish

Katie Writing...

Today has been another wonderful day in the life of the Bloodworths. We started off the day waking up to the sunrise. I assure you, Russell was not as excited about this as I. I went to bed thinking about the sunrise and woke up twice making sure not to miss it. When I opened my eyes, the sun was just coming up on the horizon, so in sweet wifey fashion I yell "Look! Look! Wake up and look!" So Russell jumps up saying "Wha, Wha, What's going on?" and I smile and say "The sunrise. Take a picture. Hurry! Oh, and good morning." So I sat quietly after that, satisfied to see the sun come up and watch the sky turn all sorts of beautiful.

Since we were up, I finished the previous day's blog posting and we fed fish with leftover cookies. Then it was off to breakfast where once more, I made a bad choice. Russell ordered the cheese souffle which we already knew was awesome. I ordered it before I entered my streak of mediocre food choices. It's made with gruyere cheese, onions, hot red peppers and green peas. I know, green peas sounds like an odd choice, but it's REALLY good. I, in my adventurous nature, chose the mud crab omelette. Could be good right? Nope! It was very bland and crabby tasting. Did I eat it anyway? Yep...and followed it up with a full bowl of granola complete with yogurt and berries. That's my kind of breakfast.

And now a note about service. On par with previous dining experiences, breakfast came with it's glitches. Nothing terrible, but still noteworthy. We were seated in a lovely spot facing the ocean and the pier and given menus. Catch one: one of the menus had no actual menu inside, it was just a folder. Catch two: our waitress seats us and asks us if we would like water. We reply "Yes". The question was followed with "Would you like tea or coffee." We go against our routine of just water and add in a request for tea. Away she goes. Eight minutes later, no tea, no water and no order taken another waitress approaches the table. She asks for our room number (of course, however we still haven't figured out why everyone wants to know our room number), asks us if we'd like something to drink and we give the same order of tea and water. She then takes our food order. She repeats the order "Souffle, omelette, and coffee." She is corrected, "we'd actually like to have tea, not coffee." and off she goes. Five minutes more pass. Tea arrives from the initial waitress and she does not take our order. Five minutes after that, the second waitress brings tea. Oops! Lack of communication...who would've thought?!

Ok, that's all for meal bloopers, at least for now.

We finish breakfast and head back to the room for a little snorkel. One of the perks of these over water burres is that you have a ladder off the side of your porch that goes right down into the water. We don't even have to go anywhere to see the beauty of the coral reef! Down we go to see what there is to see. The fish here are beautiful! We see fish that you've only ever seen in Finding Nemo. Clown fish, Parrot fish, fish that look like leopards, clear fish, fish you can't even describe. My favorite thing and what I'm most fascinated by are the bright blue starfish. My mission for the day- hold one.

The first step of my mission is to figure out if the blue beauty I've admired from afar is actually a starfish and not a piece of coral (which is what Russell believed). I dive in and take time to enjoy the view. Rainbows of color everywhere you look. Even the nasty sea cucumbers are cool. Now I know the general population's fascination with neon, everyone wants to have a piece of this beauty below the ocean. My opinion, keep the neon on the fish...it does not look good on humans. Anyway, I find the bright blue object about six feet down. As I've discussed in a previous post, I have become a floater and not a sinker so getting below the surface of the water proves to be a challenge. I swim down just long enough to poke it. Hmm, it's rigid. It does not seem to budge when I touch it, maybe it is coral. I swim on to shallower water to see if I can find another one. I find one on a big piece of coral. I pull, it doesn't budge. However, I've decided it definitely IS a starfish, each one I see has five arms; some of them are hiding halfway in the sand or in the holes of other coral. I continue the mission. I swim over a shallow bit of sand and spot one, it's not too deep for me to grab and there's no coral for it to attach itself. I pick it up, it doesn't squirm like the other starfish I've held on this trip. I get really excited, this may be the most beautiful thing I've held in my hand yet. We must take a picture. Somehow, Russell isn't quite as excited as I am about my discovery. I get him to hold it and he does so like he's found a dirty sock- far away from his body with just his thumb and forefinger. I laugh and take it back into my possession. When we get back to our dock, I place the starfish carefully on the ladder so as not to drop it or harm it in any way. Now is when he decides to use his tentacles. They're tiny, and strong! The starfish is stuck to the ladder! I pull and push and try to slide him off, I mean, he's got to come off sooner or later or he'll dry out! I feel terrible when I pull him from the stair and he leaves a few tentacles behind. Starfish have the uncanny ability to regrow missing parts, right? It's just a few tentacles right? Either way, I apologize profusely, we take it's photo and I swim him back down to the bottom of the ocean. (Thank you for reading this part...I'm sure I've enjoyed writing it much more than anyone will enjoy reading this play by play).

We end our bit of snorkeling and do a bit of lounging and cookie eating (might I add that one of the room service men called us the cookie monsters today). After that, we packed our bag and headed to lunch with the expectation of spending time at the pool and making some friends.

Lunch: Russell scores, I fail...surprise! Russell gets the pesto risotto with squid and I order the chicken ramen in honor of my sister. Russell's lunch was rich and flavorful, mine fell flat- watery broth, unidentifiable chicken pieces, bitter mushrooms, soggy tofu. These aren't your average ramen noodles and ( I can't believe I'm saying this) I think Manchu Wok is better. Please, write that down. Lunch brings the crazy bad service once again with an empty drink menu and no water or any sort of service past the part of being seated for 15 minutes. Several waiters look at our table and a few even ask if we've been helped, but to no avail. Finally water comes followed by appetizers and food and even mojitos that we ordered after Russell goes to the hostess desks and requests it. The rest of lunch is uneventful.

And we're off to the pool for some friend-making. Have we mentioned that we aren't good at this? We met some people who arrived two days ago that have become best friends with every American couple in the resort in less than 48 hours. Russell and I feel like we're back in elementary school trying to break into the "cool group". We're sissies. At the pool, we eaves drop on a few conversations, watch people making friends and take some paparazzi pics of the guy who is in his late fifties and vacationing with his mother.

Let me introduce you- Adorned with a handlebar mustache, he drinks wine straight from the bottle and balances a CD Walkman with really nice Bose headphones. He does a little dance that he thinks no one can see. I can only imagine that he's rocking out to some vintage hip hop from the 80s. He comes complete with a gold chain and a plumber's crack. It's possible that he shaves his chest. This is the same guy who wears sunglasses to dinner. Don't worry, he changes them up, sometimes he wears reflective lenses ( you know, the ones that look like rainbows) and sometimes, on special evenings he brings out the yellow lenses. Russell says he looks like Jeff Bridges, from the Big Lebowski. He wears his house shoes as flip flops and has taken special care to get some frosted tips in his shaggy brown hair. His outfits are an endless array of ridiculousness from white steel toed boots to button downs replete with images of skulls and lightning bolts . This man scares me to death. Every time he walks past me, I envision him slugging me in the face and laughing as he continues on.

Fiji Honeymoon: Day 7 (Liku Liku)






(Katie Writing)

I'm a bit embarrassed to say that there's not much to write about for today. Russell and I have become quite content just sitting and watching- water, boats, fish, sunrise and set, and maybe a few people as well.

A quick sum up of our day- we slept in and decided not to attend breakfast. We are brought daily homemade cookies which satisfied our hunger and got us off on a good start for over-indulging and expanding our waistlines for the day. I was telling Russell yesterday that I can feel my body getting fatter by the minute but for some reason, I'm just letting it happen! Anyway, after breakfast we packed our things and called for a "porter" to pick them up and take them to reception where we would be checking out and then checking back into an over-water burre. Porters are nice because they come in a golf cart and no one has to lug the luggage across the resort. Well, I made the call at 10:20 (we were supposed to be at checkout by 11:00). At 10:40 we got a call from the front desk asking if we were planning on coming to check out. We explained that "yes, we are. We're waiting on our porter." The front desk assured us that they would send one out. Well, 10:55 came around and there was no porter in sight. I made the executive decision to haul our bags up ourselves. It's about a half a mile trek to the reception desk. On the way, a member of housekeeping stopped us and said "you should've called a porter". We explained that we did and no one came. On she walked to continue her daily duties. As we approach the reception desk the woman behind the counter looks at us and said "Oh, you should've called a porter". Once again, we politely explained that we did and she just changed the subject looking a cross between embarrassed and annoyed (not our fault we asked twice and no one came). Finally, the office manager is leaving his office as we are making the final delivery of our bags and he says "Oh, you should've called a porter". We again politely explain our situation and he cuts us off but NO ONE EVER APOLOGIZES for their less-than-five-star-service.

While I'm on the service subject, let me just give you a little insight into the craziness at this resort. Again, I must say, we are having the time of our lives and we are grateful for the opportunity to come here, but I'm positive that no-name highway motel service is better organized than the service here. For example mealtime: You check in at the little desk and you are seated by the hostess (maybe a host, maybe a waiter, maybe a member of the band...no one can be sure). Someone else comes to bring menus and introduces him/herself as your waiter/tress. After that someone else brings you water. There are only two options in each category of the menu so it should take only a few minutes to decide. By this point you realize that you'll never see your waiter again as four different staff members approach your table and ask for your burre number, but no one takes your order. Finally, someone will notice that there isn't any food on your table and they will bring you bread (which I must say is always fantastic) and take your order. Then, each course is served by a different staff member. After each course, more and more flatware is removed from the table so that by dessert, nothing is left. This sounds practical and would be if there were only a few people in charge of your table, but it makes it quite confusing for staff to know whether you've actually eaten dessert and you are just occupying your table or if you are patiently waiting for dessert. Most often, the case is that you haven't received dessert. Again, more people will ask for your room number and finally, dessert will come. If you're lucky, they'll just re-take your dessert order altogether because no one has recorded it at all.

Now, onto the rest of our day...

Once our bags were stored, we took a detour to the pool while we were waiting on our room to be ready for us. The pool is beautiful. It's an infinity pool and lots of architectural consideration was put in while building it. It curves around and has little cubbies throughout with islands of trees and beautiful steps across to the other side. The chairs are all placed in sets of two with big umbrellas and there is a water stand so that you can stay hydrated. We put our umbrella down so that we could get some sun. (Surprisingly, the UV rays aren't strong here right now. We've been using minimal sunscreen and have yet to burn. It must be because it's winter here). While at the pool we took advantage of the wine we brought with us. I must add- we bought boxed wine before we left the states because we thought it would travel better- it did and it was a great value. This wine is no Franzia, it's actually quite good and you can get the equivalent of 4 bottles of wine for between $20-30. Anyway, I had packed the leftover white into a water bottle so that we could discretely pour it for ourselves without looking like the tightwads that we are :) It was a beautiful setting for a midmorning drink.

Following our time at the pool, we ate lunch. Once again, management had to go and impress us by having no one to seat us for lunch. So we just hung out and waited for lunch to get a late start. I'll have to admit, life could be much worse than having to wait for a seat at lunch :) Another good meal was had for Russell, he had a lamb burger on a ciabatta bun with grilled zucchini and cucumbers. It was well-spiced and a great size. I, on the other hand, have been cursed by the gods of mediocre cuisine. I had the spiced crawfish pasta. It was by no means the worst food I've ever eaten but was reminiscent of a Lean Cuisine. Lots of pasta, four pieces of tomato, about 8 pieces (that's like sliced pieces, not whole) crawfish and some simple spices. Needless to say, underwhelmed, sadly in keeping with most of my meals at Liku Liku.

During lunch we were alerted that our overwater burre was ready. This time, our luggage had been portered to the room. Score one for the management team! Wow. This. Room. Is. Awesome. It's much lighter than the land burre and has a more luxurious, less Disney World Swiss Family Robinson look. Of course, my eyes are immediately drawn to the view. It looks like we're back at Taveuni and we're the only people here. We have a small wrap around deck. On one side, we have a view of islands and ocean and the other side we have a view of the shoreline with volcanic and coral rock formations as well as trees. We have a nice view of a few sailboats and an indescribable view of the sunrise. Back to the burre- we have a large open bathroom with a soaking tub that looks over the view. From lying in the bed, you also get a great view of, well, the view. There are large windows and doors throughout that can be opened so it's like you're just sitting on the ocean. Mostly because you ARE sitting on the ocean.

We decide to spend most of the day hanging out in our new digs.

Of course, I can't go long without a report on the management staff. We get a phone call that we have left our "canvas" in our previous dwelling. A canvas? Hmm....we'll have to think on this one for a minute. Yes, as a matter of fact I left a bag of seashells and water shoes. I ask what they would like us to do and they say a porter will bring it to us. Fat chance.

I realize I have forgotten to call for dinner reservations, so I make the call and the front desk says that they'll call us back with a confirmation. Good thing I didn't hold my breath. Once again, same as when we called for internet issues, previous dinner reservations, porter service...there is no call back as promised. And incase you were in suspense waiting to find out about our "canvas" that never came either.

A bonus about our new overwater burre- we get a mid-day snack around 3:30pm Yum! Just what I need, food for my over-worked, I mean extremely lazy body. It's really good. Feta, pancetta, marinated tomatoes, and bread. Russell hates it so I get to eat it all myself!

Now it's time to get ready for dinner. Just what we need: more food! I can feel my double chin expanding just thinking about it. We again go through the same chaotic dinner experience of rotating waiters but the food makes up for it. At least Russell's does anyway. Once more, I have continued my curse of mediocre cuisine. Russell orders the 6 hours braised beef cheek with pureed potatoes baked in coconut husks. It is the most satisfying food I have ever tasted. Rich, smokey, melt-in-your-mouth goodness.

I have duck leg. This was one skinny duck. My duck leg was dry and stringy but had good flavor. It was atop grilled radiccio. Again, great flavor, but over-cooked and soggy.

For dessert, Russell had a green colored crepe with black sweet rice and coconut sorbet and I have a melon creme brule with vanilla cake and watermelon. I'll have to say, we've both jumped on the train of mediocracy for dessert. It was definitely a swing and a miss.

So, off to the reception desk to learn more on "The Case of the Forgotten Canvas". It appears that no one knows what we're talking about so they tell us to check our closets. Again. So, doubting our searching skills, we check our closets again but to no avail. We call the front desk. The conversation goes something like this:

Receptionist: Bula

Me: Hi, I'm calling about the canvas (since this seems to be the word to use) that we left in burre 43.

Reception: Yes

Me: We still don't know where it is.

Reception: Can you describe?

Me: Yes, It's a yellow bag with brown leaves on it. It contains water shoes and seashells.

Receptionist: have you checked the closet?

Me: Yes.

Receptionist: both of them?

Me: Yes.

Receptionist: Yes, thank you. bye.

Me to Russell: Argh!!!

Later they call back. I insist that Russell take the call because I know that there is no "polite" left in my body.

Receptionist: Bula! Have you found your bag?

Russell: No.

Reception: Can you describe?

Russell: Yes, yellow bag with brown leaves contains water shoes and seashells.

Reception: can I have your Burre number? (this is a common question when no one seems to know what's going on)

Russell: Yes, previously 43 now 1.

Reception: have you looked in the closet?

Russell: yes

Reception: both of them?

Russell: yes.

Reception: the housekeeper said she put them in your closet.

Russell: babe, check the closets. (closets checked) Russell to Receptionist: they're not in there.

Reception: ok, thank you. bye.

At this point, we're sure that the bag is long gone and we begin to calculate the value of lost items. After the sum is totaled, we get ready for bed and are on our way to sweet dreams when there is a knock on the door.

You guessed it, it's our bag. Where they found it, we'll never know because there was no explanation or apology given. Oh well, we still have a spectacular view and the soothing sounds of the ocean.

The end.

Sunday, July 18, 2010

Fiji Honeymoon: Day 6 (LikuLiku Lagoon)






Russell writing...

Our second full day at LikuLiku was almost identical to the first full day. Eating, lazing about, and a hike through the hills. With that being the case, I'll try to do a quicker job than normal walking through the day's goings-on.

For breakfast we had the exact same thing as the day before, although Katie didn't get the cheese souffle. In what I thought was a kind gesture, I piled up a plate full of bread and brought it over for her, lest she starve. She was perfectly content though with her freshly juiced beverage she made at the buffet table, although by the end of the meal we both had picked the bread plate nearly clean.

For the rest of the morning we spent most of our time alternating between our lounge chairs down by the beach and our covered day bed next to our deck. I love this day bed! We had one at Taveuni Palms too, but this one might be slightly more comfortable. One day, if we can afford it, we'll have to add one to whatever house we buy down the road. Sipping champagne on a day bed by the ocean isn't a bad way to spend one's morning!

After lunch, during which Katie had a "crispy beef salad" (which she likened to beef jerky...not sure that's a compliment to the chef!) and I enjoyed a delicious salmon quiche, we both decided another walk was in order. We rested a bit first, but by late afternoon we were ready for our second island trek. Katie's stomach wasn't feeling well (bad jerky?), but she was determined to push through it. We set off first backtracking our journey from the previous day. We went past the Mololo Island Resort, and past where the starfish, etc., had all been (although this time the tide was up and we were instead wading through water), and then back up through the hills. It was a little tougher this go round than it had been the day before as it seemed the uphill climbs were now steeper.

When we arrived at the fork where we could take the path back to our burre, we decided to keep on moving past. The trail, according to the resort-provided map, is supposed to continue on through the hills over to a long beach on the other side of LikuLiku, but we soon found this to be...inaccurate.

After trekking along the well-defined path a bit, the trail suddenly stopped short. Hmmm.... The map says it keeps going, so what's going on? We tried to push through the brush, but it was too dense, and we had no choice but to head back to the resort. As we walked back to our burre, I spotted what looked like another trail. It had no "employees only" sign or anything next to it, so I thought perhaps the map had simply mislabeled things and that this was where we had been intended to go in the first place. Against Katie's better judgment, we walked along the new path hoping to continue on where the previous path had been cut short.

We soon found, once again, that the path was not what we had supposed. Instead of being a walking trail, it seemed we were actually walking through the resort's trash dump complete with nearby incinerator. This should have been a tip-off, but I posited that the trail must pick back up on the other side. It seemed to...for a bit, but then seemed to be less defined the further we ventured. It wasn't long before the trail and the brush became indistinguishable, but Katie and I kept walking slowly and surely up an increasingly steep hill. About halfway up this hill, which turned out to be more like a small mountain, Katie had the right idea to stay put while I journeyed on ahead. The ground became more and more gravelly, and it was near impossible to get traction with my shoes. After a few near stumbles and a LOT further than I thought, I made it to the top of the hill and took a few pictures. I turned around to look for Katie and couldn't even see her down the hill. Wow....lot steeper than I thought.

On the way back down, which was a lot scarier than the way up, I seemed to be doing ok: taking my time and carefully placing each foot as I sidestepped down the mountain. Not too far down though, one of my feet gave way and I began tumbling down in an out-of-control run. I tried to fall down on my backside but the momentum was too much. Before I made it to Katie I finally tripped on a branch, falling down on my side with my arm scraping against the ground to stop me. Ouch. BIG Ouch.

Bruised and humbled, I hobbled over to Katie and we tried to make it down the REST of the hill together. Again, I fell, and then Katie fell after. This wasn't the best idea I've ever had to climb this sucker. If only someone could have videoed the whole affair!

Somewhat defeated, we made our way back to the burre to prepare for dinner. On the way, we came across a couple that happened to be two Americans from southern California. We were relieved to find people at the resort who appeared to be relatively normal! They had just gotten married, the same day as us in fact, and they had arrived at LikuLiku that very day. The first part of their honeymoon was spent in Hawaii, and we tried to give them our insider perspective on Fijian honeymoon living.

Dinner was uneventful for the most part, but the meal itself was interesting. There was no menu to choose from and instead we were served an Indian-influenced assortment of foods. The first course was absolutely delicious! It had a few fried items including something resembling a corn dog. Much better tasting though :)

The main course was a bit of a chore. It's been a while since I've had crab legs, and I'm not sure after this night that I'd be quick to have them again. Katie and I were so frustrated trying to extricate the small amounts of meat from the joints, etc., that by the time you actually got something you didn't even care anymore.

Two other items worth noting about dinner. Towards the end of the meal, we were treated to a local church choir singing. Katie and I had hoped to attend one of the local services that morning since it was Sunday, but we ended up not scheduling it in time. With the church choir singing during dinner we were able to enjoy what surely would have been one of the church highlights. Related to this event, there was a couple sitting next us that's worth mentioning. A bit older, and either Australian or English (either way, they had a near impossible dialect to understand), these two seem to command some sort of respect amongst the staff. Perhaps they're the owners? We've seen them at a few other meals since we've been here, and they're the only ones with a reserved table. Anyway, during the choir's performance, this white Anglo couple was singing right along with them. Interesting!

Fiji Honeymoon: Day 5 (LikuLiku Lagoon)






Russell writing...

I feel like we've let time get away from us a bit since we've moved to LikuLiku Lagoon and we've consequently gotten behind in our blogging. Of course, that could be partly attributed to the fact that LikuLiku isn't as memorable a place as Taveuni Palms was. That would be a difficult feat for LikuLiku to accomplish!

Anyway, the pace of Fijian living has slowed down for us somewhat since our move. This is ironic since I'd intentionally selected Taveuni Palms as our first destination because it looked like a great place to unwind after all our air travel. LikuLiku was going to be the "social" spot where we'd be living it up in a faster-paced setting. Oh well.

The first thing to report from our first full day at LikuLiku is: breakfast. Unlike Taveuni where you were able to select from rather large menu and make personal requests as desired, LikuLiku offers a breakfast buffet and a small menu of a la cart items. I consider it a small step down from our previous home but only slightly as breakfast turned out to be quite delicious!

The breakfast buffet offered an assortment mostly of breads (sweet and savory), jams, fruit, etc., but it also offered, somewhat impressively, fresh coconut milk still in their coconuts (you just punch a straw through the top and drink away!) as well as a juicing station. Fresh beets, carrots, pineapple, mango, and a few other items sit next to a Breville centrifugal juicer for all the guests to enjoy... although I suspect that only Katie and I are the sort to make use of it. Great addition to the spread.

As for our a la cart items, Katie and I ordered a cheese souffle and some coconut crepes respectively. The souffle was delicious, and in truth, the coconut crepes rival those we had at Taveuni; I actually even somewhat preferred the texture of the LikuLiku crepes. No syrup provided though?

After that, our morning consisted largely of lazing about and people watching. For a place that has won a number of awards and is stated to be a 5-star resort equal to what we experienced at Taveuni, it's a little difficult not to be surprised by the other clientele. I hope that doesn't come across as snooty, but I trust that if you were to witness some of the styles in vogue here you'd understand. Thus far we've met or observed the following: 2 Japanese sisters on vacation who take pictures of themselves whatever chance they get (there's nothing wrong with these 2 of course, but it's still quite something to imagine how many "rolls of film" they're going through); a couple from NYC that looks like they're straight off the boat from Jersey Shore; a couple whose male counterpart walks around in basketball jerseys and who wears his sunglasses in a gravity-defying way; plenty of tattooed-laden fellows and lasses; a man with a handle-bar mustache who, no lie, wears his sunglasses day and night, wears shirts adorned with skulls and flame patterns, and who apparently is here with his 80ish-year-old mother. The list goes on.

Next is lunch. With the exception of the previous night's dinner, which was a barbeque buffet, lunch and dinner meals are three courses which are chosen from a menu with two lists of options that change each day of the week. Hopefully that makes sense. Anyway, Katie and I enjoyed for lunch a plate of fresh Tuna and some squid.

The post-lunch agenda was a blank slate, so we decided to do a little hiking to combat our increasingly problematic calorie intakes. An excellent idea it turned out as we had a wonderful time exploring the surrounding area of the resort. There are supposed marked trails around the property, and after a bit of searching we finally found an entrance to one near our burre. This early part of the trail was a "coconut grove," which we think was planted by the resort. Trees are tightly packed together, bent in all sorts of peculiar ways, which makes for an impressive visual but complicated hiking.

As we pressed on, we found that our expectations for an easy jaunt were a little off base. The trek was much more involving than we'd anticipated! Hills, vegetation, sandy and rocky inclines and declines where getting a bit of shoe traction proved a challenge. But it was well worth it and brought us spectacular views. After crossing one particular peak, Jona's Lookout, we descended down the "mountain" into an area of mangrove trees next to the coastline. The mangroves had trapped all sorts of debris, etc., within them, and we had to trek through and past an old mattress, dilapidated boats, pipes and tubes.

Beyond the mangroves though was where we spent most of the remainder of our day. The tide was near its lowest point and we walked out on an expanse of exposed rock and coral. Here we ventured slowly about and took in all the marine sights. Katie is a bit braver than I, so while I stood back and took plenty of pictures to document the moment, she stooped down every few feet to examine her latest finding: a colony of crabs; different varieties of starfish; sea cucumbers.

We began making our way back to the resort, taking in all the imagery as we went. To get back though, we continued along the beach/rocks rather than returning through the hills. As a result, we came across one of the neighboring traveler havens, the Mololo Island resort. It seems a bit more family oriented, but in some ways, perhaps just aesthetically, it seemed to match up a bit more with Katie's and my preferences. Instead of "Fijian" burres, their beach is dotted with what I feel inclined to call South Carolina-style cottages. Very pretty, and we admired the view. (although it's worth pointing out that we also walked past the staff quarters, which are beyond the resort; a bit slum-like...the staff quarters at LikuLiku seem much better).

Upon returning to LikuLiku, it was near time for dinner. Katie and I cleaned up, and left early for the restaurant to participate in cocktail hour. For as big as this place is, we can't help but note how antisocial this "social" crowd is. Perhaps only WE'RE antisocial? Either way, the cocktail hour doesn't seem to be heavily attended, and Katie and I contented ourself with a mojito which we enjoyed at a corner table.

Dinner consisted of some sort of chicken dish that Katie ordered while I requested the Australian venison. Quite tasty. But then they had to spoil the whole affair by garnishing our desserts with clear-colored jello. Who eats jello? Another great day, but I'd still say we miss Taveuni. :)

Friday, July 16, 2010

Taveuni Palms: Day 3

Katie Writing...

Wow, what a day. Probably the most memorable we've had so far. We began the day early (of course) at around 6am with an outstanding breakfast. Russell had a pile of pancakes complete with fresh coconut shavings and bananas. The bananas here are like nothing we've ever tasted, probably because they go pull them off of the tree in the morning and they're ripe. Perfectly ripe without the help of chemicals and normal sized without the help of hormones.

After breakfast we were briefed on our day (as if we would forget the wonderfulness planned) by Teila and met by John, our snorkeling guide for the morning excursion we had planned. Jonny (no relation to John), a South African transplant, greeted us at the base of our villa in his boat and took us out to some small islands for snorkeling.

Our first go was short. We had to get back in the boat because of strong tides. After coming up and noticing our surroundings, we were nowhere close to where we should have been. Russell and I were thankful to have a guide and a driver so we weren't swept out to sea while we were preoccupied with the beauty beneath the water.

Our second dive was much better. We went further inland and sheltered ourselves between a few small islands. This is where John, our guide, really showed us how to snorkel! John can hold his breath forever and dive very deep without even using diving equipment! We were in awe as he shot down to depths of at least 40 feet, swam under and through coral and into small caves and then popped up through a break in the coral unexpectedly. Please let me add that Russell and I attempted only shallow dives to find that our ears were on the verge of bursting. I could barely get my body underwater at all...I'm a little more buoyant than I used to be!

Russell writing...

John pointed out all the different types of coral and fish (which he lured in towards us with what looked to be green peas that he'd crush in his hand), and we had a simply marvelous time. By the end, we were both a little chilly and ready to get back to the villa and begin a cooking lesson we had scheduled with Teila, one of our morning cooks as well as the staff manager.

When we arrived at the villa, Teila greeted us with all of the supplies we would need for our lesson. Spices, freshly caught fish, flour, mango chutney (which was already prepared), and a few cooking tools. Before we started the cooking process, our two maintenance workers joined us to demonstrate how to climb a 50ft palm tree with no shoes! One of them scaled the tree, ably tore off a couple of green coconuts and tossed them down to the other fellow on the ground. And then of course he posed for a few pictures before descending :)

The green coconuts' milk is actually very sweet and a delicious drink right out of the shell, and one of the guys chopped off the ends of the ones he'd just taken from the tree, stuck straws in them, and handed them over for us to enjoy! Then Teila produced from the kitchen an older, brown coconut, which she chopped in half, and which I was promptly assigned to scrape the insides from using a traditional Fijian scraper (it's basically a piece of wood that you sit on that has a metal claw that sticks out the front between your legs; you then scrape the inside of the coconut against it to make FRESH COCONUT SHAVINGS!).

Katie and Teila meanwhile were in the kitchen seasoning the fish with traditional Fijian curry spices and making Roti tortillas from the provided flour and water. When I came back to join them, we then tossed the Roti on a skillet to make the most delicious tortillas you've ever tasted (they're sort of a mix between Indian Naan bread and Mexican tortillas), and started cooking the fish. Before long we sat down to another fabulous Taveuni Palms meal, except this time we were the cooks!

The next event that we scheduled for the day was simply a walk through the neighboring town (which includes both village dwellings as well as smaller tourist resorts and a few restaurants and shops). After a mile along the main highway, which follows the coastline, Katie and I stopped at Audrey's.

(Katie writing)

Audrey's is actually a woman's home whose name would be none other than, Audrey. Audrey is an eccentric woman in her 70s who moved to the island from California in the 1980s with her husband. It's unclear whether he is deceased or just does not live on the island anymore.

Audrey bakes. She also makes homemade Kahlua, tea and coffee drinks. Depending on who you are, she offers you different things. For example. We sat down and were offered three different cake options and iced coffee or hot coffee. She also offered Australian iced coffee indirectly which she actually does not make :) We chose chocolate cake and iced coffee. Neither Russell nor I drink coffee so we thought iced coffee would mask the taste.

Another man arrived on the front porch (you're not actually invited any further) and he was offered three different types of tea and some juice in addition to coffee. Oh well, I guess she didn't want us to have anything other than coffee!

While waiting for our cake, we were offered shots of Kahlua. This woman can make some Kahlua! It was the strongest I have ever tasted. We poured it into our iced coffee to hide the taste of the coffee and dilute the taste of the Kahlua. The cake was good (we hear the best on the island), but it did not compare to the cake my grandmothers make.

Now more on Audrey- She reminds me of a cartoon. Wrinkled and beginning to stoop, but does not cease to fix her hair and cake on the make up. The 80's must have been a good decade for her because her eyeshadow is blue and her blush very pink. She's a very forward woman. She doesn't look for the "polite" way to say things and does not seem to meet a stranger. She has a cat named "RPA" short for "royal pain in the ass". She claims he's part Siamese. He's orange and white and looks like a former stray. We watched him scare a puppy, tail tucked, right away from the porch.

While on the porch, we meet a guy who looks older than us, but it seems he is not. He was a former Marketing agent in California who is now working for the Peace Corp. in a small villiage in Taveuni. His job is to help with tourism growth and teaching technology. He seemed tired, but grateful to be away from his American career. We also met an Australian backpacker who looked like a prophet. Old (I'm sure not as old as he looked), skinny, with long hair and a long beard. He wore a sari and a button down shirt. He told us of the troubles of using the ATMs in Fiji, which apparently is a major problem around the area.

Overall, Audrey's was a worthwhile stop.

On we went to the grocery store. I love experiencing grocery stores of other cultures. I think that you really learn about culture by walking through their markets. This market was packed! I guess it was like taking Wal-Mart and putting it in a shrinky-dink machine then taking all of the sanitation away. You could find everything from batteries to eggs to rolling pins to fabric bolts. You could do your laundry in a building behind the store and you could get gas in the front (but not on Sundays). A favorite aspect of this store, it was owned by an Indian family. They seem to dominate the market worldwide :)

Russell writing...

Our last stop in town was at Babbu's house, which we'd been invited to the night before. We were a little embarrassed because we were running late thanks to Audrey, whom I affectionately refer to as the "cat lady", delaying our outing by a bit. Babbu was quite gracious though, and he and his wife, Suji, welcomed us in--we removed our shoes before entering as is customary--and sat and chatted with us for a while (Babbu is much chattier than the wife!). Also, Babbu is the proud father of a new three month-old son, his first child, and Katie was able to hold him during our pow-wow. As a side note, instead of a crib or motorized swing, etc., Babbu's baby boy had been sleeping in what I can only describe as being like a Baby Bjorn that hangs from the ceiling. Sort of a sling. It was homemade from some green fabric, and it had a bunch of blankets and pillows on the inside for the newborn to sleep on.

After we'd chatted a bit, Babbu then introduced us to what I'd anxiously been awaiting: Kava. Kava is a traditional Fijian ceremonial drink that historically was reserved for village chiefs, but is now enjoyed by everyone. It's supposed to have a number of beneficial medicinal properties, but it's more commonly associated with a numbing sensation of the tongue and a relaxing/sleepy feeling. Also, there has been some loose correlation with liver problems and skin rashes, although these issues typically seem to only afflict non-natives. Anyway, more than anything, the main obstacle we were expecting was a challenging taste.

Kava is made from crushed up roots and water, and doesn't taste particularly good. But we had been wanting to partake in this cultural custom and had no intention of backing down now. So, Babbu prepared a large serving of the muddy-looking stuff in a blue plastic tub, and we all sat down on a hand-woven mat in cross-legged positions waiting to taste the concoction. I was the first to try. Babbu poured some Kava into a smaller coconut bowl and passed it over. First, everyone clapped once in preparation for my drinking, and then I struggled to consume the dirt-like mixture. After a minute or so, and after a decent amount of wincing and squirming, I had downed the Kava, we all clapped three times, and it was Katie's turn. She reacted similarly, and it was up to Babbu to show us how it was done. Interestingly, after he guzzled his drink he winced as well, remarking he'd made it a bit too strong! :)

We continued to take turns, drinking small cups of Kava, until Katie and I felt we could endure no more. Then, the festivities moved outside to a little hut with a sign adorning it: "Babbu's Billiards and Grog" (I have no idea what "grog" means). Here we played a round of 8-ball pool, with Katie and I teamed up against Babbu. The collaborative effort sadly made no difference, however, and Babbu beat us handily.

The sun had already set by this point, and Babbu offered to drive us back to our villa; we appreciatively accepted. There, we found the decks outside the villa decorated with a large number of lanterns, beautifully contrasting with the night sky. We immediately informed Teila we were ready for dinner to be served out on the Bula deck so we could enjoy the decoration. The meal consisted of "samosas", crab, and some sort of delicious coconut-based dessert. A wonderful way to spend our last evening on Taveuni, and we can't wait to return one day!




Fiji Honeymoon (Taveuni Palms): Day 2






Russell writing…

Well, since we’re writing each of these blog entries a day or two after-the-fact, I’m doing my best to remember everything that we’ve packed into our short trip thus far. But there’s a lot to keep track of! Also, for now I seem to be having trouble uploading more photos to the blog, so if you're interested in checking out the visual tale of our travels, go to my page on Facebook.

On Day 2 of our official stay at the Taveuni Palms in Fiji, Katie and I woke up around 5:00am…bright and early. We had been so tired the night before that we passed out right after the sun went down. But the jet lag has actually put us on somewhat of a healthy schedule, so it’s hard to complain too much.

After we’d been up for a bit we had an absolutely delicious breakfast! I had the Mango French Toast (which is now a personal favorite of all the dishes we’ve had on our vacation), and Katie had some sort of Fijian oatmeal. Almost every ingredient used is either grown organically on the premises or at the very least is obtained locally. Following our morning satiation, we then jumped in the resort’s private car with Babbu, a local fellow who made sure to point out every interesting plant or animal as we drove along and also tell us great stories. The agenda for the day was to drive to Lavena, a small village on the eastern end of the island, where we would take a guided kayaking/hiking trip.

When we pulled up to the guide station in Lavena, we were greeted by Samoné, a native of Lavena and our guide for the day. He wore an all-blue outfit of shorts, t-shirt, and cap (which somewhat surprisingly hides a head of graying hair), and gave a first impression that to me felt a bit gruff and no-nonsense. I couldn’t have misread him more. It turned out that Samoné is, by all accounts, a fun-loving prankster.

Our excursion began when all three of us jumped into a couple of kayaks, Samoné in one with Katie and I following behind in another. We followed the coast closely for about a mile before venturing out beyond the barrier reef where we encountered some of the biggest waves I’ve ever seen! It’s a miracle we didn’t capsize, but it sure was exciting if nothing else! After about an hour or so, we paddled back inland into a stream that ran from the mountains, and where there were a number of beautiful waterfalls. We then paddled our kayaks a bit further along the coast to another stream with another series of waterfalls, except these waterfalls required a bit of hiking to get to.

First, to refuel ourselves before our hike to the falls, Katie and I found some shelter from the sun in a small hut next to the stream where we parked our kayaks, and we ate the wonderful picnic lunch prepared by the folks at Taveuni Palms (a BLT for Katie and Fijian chicken curry for me served on Roti--a Fijian version of the tortilla--; phenomenal!). We shared our food with Samoné as well, who I think enjoyed it as much as we did. Anyway, lunch behind us, we trekked ahead along a narrow path that wound through the hills, along cliffs, and crossed trickling streams filled with trout. At the end of the trail was the main stream, sourced from some fresh water springs, and here the waterfalls were. It actually took a bit of swimming to reach them, and the water was freezing. But the prize was well worth it. There was a natural rock slide, which Katie and I both made use of (although it was tricky to climb up to) as well as a jumping rock at the top of the tallest waterfall (~50ft). Samoné tackled this latter challenge while Katie and I merely looked on in awe. But the rest of the time, he just would dive down in the water while we swam and then try to pull us under from below while we weren't paying attention. Like I said, he's a prankster!

Following our waterfall outing we actually did not return to the kayaks but instead trekked by foot along the coastline all the way back to Lavena, which was about 1 hr walk. Back in the village, we met one of Samoné’s children and took a few choice photos. Samone´also took the opportunity to explain a few things about a few Fijian goings-on and other trivia: the villagers now do a lot of fishing for sea slugs and export them to China where they’re currently a very popular and expensive culinary delicacy; Noni juice/fruits has been used to cure all kinds of illnesses including cancer, but it smells like the worst body odor you can possibly imagine; the village has no electricity except for the hut that belongs to a Peace Corps member who’s been around for a couple of years; to pass the time, the villagers drink Kava, a local plant root that tastes something similar to muddy water.

(Katie Writing)

I must add more about the village. Upon first look of the villages of Taveuni and specifically Simone's village, you would think of deprivation and poverty. Upon further observation, you realize that not everyone values "stuff" like Americans. I've never seen a happier people than the Lavenians. The children go to school and happily return in their school uniforms, singing and smiling. The men work hard and take breaks to socialize during the day and the women work in the homes taking care of the children and cooking. EVERYONE lives with a smile on their face. These people are not poor. They are full and happy with their lives.

(Russell Writing)

We loved our time with Samoné and hated to leave him, but Babbu picked us back from the guide station and we journeyed back to the resort where we received spa facials to help us recover from the day. I’d never had one before and wasn’t sure what to expect. But I think Katie and I both figured the process would last only a half hour at the longest. It turned out that the facial included what amounted to a near fully body massage, and so we were both splayed out on the massage tables again for another hour or so, and, once again, we both fell asleep before the end. *One side note: when arrived back at the resort from the day’s activities, the decks outside the villa were freshly decorated with woven palm branches and flowers. How the staff finds time to do these marvelous things is astounding!

Dinner followed soon after, and this time Katie and I decided to sit inside (we’d experienced a few bugs eating with us the night before…apparently they like to come out for the twilight hours and then hide away again once the sun’s gone down). Dinners at Taveuni Palms are a pre-designated event, so Katie and I both enjoyed a four course meal of delicious veggie springrolls, a coconut based soup served in freshly cut coconut shells, whole lobsters caught that very day, and homemade mango ice cream.

Once again, following dinner, Katie and I decided to call it an early night. After all, the day ahead was another busy one!